mi anversario de un mes

Yes, it's true and I can hardly believe that I've been living in Spain for one month now.  In the last weeks since I've written I have had the opportunity to visit Valencia, a beautiful city by the Mediterranean Sea, because  I was kindly invited by one of my colleagues and his wife.  It seems that it's always summer in Valencia compared to the freezing winter temperatures of Siles.  That is one reason why it is loved so much by the people living here.  I had mixed feelings about it because I wasn't prepared for the chaotic city energy of loud honking from impatient drivers, the odor of dog urine, and the huge crowds of people....ummm not much different than NYC.  However, the paella was out this world delicious!  Also it was really nice to spend some time by the sea and walk around a giant fresh food market.  I was impressed by the market because it was packed with local people who were buying fresh seafood, vegetables, and meats directly from the merchants.  The prices were fair and the stocks were limited.  You got the sense that the people take their food seriously here and have a strong connection to the fruits of the land and labor.
 

My dad would be in heaven here with all this affordable fresh seafood!

 "We only sell what we have" explains why you must get here early and 

why you only see products that can actually grow in Spain.

The pride of Spain: cured ham in all forms like sausage or simply sliced right off the bone.

And the pride of Valencia...can you imagine what this is for?

If you guessed this, Paella, then you're right!  ¡Muy deliciosa!

Then at night in Valencia we toured around this area known as the City of Arts and Sciences and you can see why from these images.  There are reflection ponds around all the buildings which create spectacular 3-D images.  I don't like taking photos very much but I enjoyed playing with the camera here.  

The IMAX theater and planetarium (front) and the opera house (rear)

The IMAX is designed to look like an eyeball when you catch it's reflection in the surrounding pool.  Very cool!

And this weekend I took a little day trip to a nearby city called Úbeda. This is the place to go shopping for clothes and passing time with friends.  I went with some teachers from my school.  It seems impossible but it is very typical to sit for three or four hours in the afternoon together and eat five courses of food usually to share and finish with coffee.  We did it and I enjoyed every minute even when I couldn't follow the all the conversation topics which were of course in Spanish.

From the left: Elena (English teacher), Carmen (French teacher), me, Marta (cooking professor), and another Marta (guidance counselor) who is not shown because she is taking the photo.

For them, it's their first time in Siles and they are far from home too.  Well, not as far as I am but far enough that they actually rent an apartment here by the school and only go back to their homes on long breaks from school.  Seems strange but the way the system works here in Spain is that you are appointed a teaching position where one is available.  That means you may be sent far from home and you take the job because it's better than not having one.  There are of course chances to change in the beginning but then you are lucky to keep the position for life.  Oh the differences between Spain and the States.  I'll save the rest for another time.  Hope all is well with everyone!

Besos!

discovering the beauty of siles

hace dos semanas moví a siles....
two weeks ago i moved to siles....

And what an adventure it has become already!  First, the beauty of this place is breathtaking.  There just are not enough good words to explain so I´m going to post a few pictures of my surroundings. 

These are the olive trees when you look to the right.  Every direction seems to be the same.  The trees are harvested in November and December then the olives are turned into the most delicious "liquid gold", extra virgin olive oil!  The people here take great pride in their olive oil and put it in everything they eat.  The most common breakfast is half of a toasted white bread roll, drenched in olive oil, then smeared with freshly grated tomato.  Se llama tostada and it's delicious. 

Second, the school is filled with a good collection of some of the most curious and ambitious students I have ever had the privilege to teach.  They sometimes giggle with nervous energy to speak with me in English and for many the desire to communicate is so strong.  It's adorable how they begin slowly in English then become overwhelmed with excitement and finish the question or whatever in Spanish.  The youngest students are 12 years old and they certainly have more courage to speak than the 18 year olds.  I am in complete awe of their learning and the education system here regarding English.  There are Americans doing the same job as me but are instead working in kindergartens.  Spanish children here take English for their entire school career.  How I sometimes feel doomed that I learned English first because the urge to know more languages ends when you realize that the whole world can communicate in your mother tongue.

Here is the front of the school.  Notice the olive tree growing next to the dedication of the founder of the school.  One part the building used to be a church until the growing community requested more space.  The majority of the student body is bussed here from nearby pueblos.  There are about 500 students who attend this high school which is actually called instituto rather than escuela because it serves the upper level grades.  You can leave at 16 or stay and graduate with something like an associate´s degree at 18. 

Third and perhaps last for this post, I am fully immersed in the language and culture of Spain or more specifically Andalucía. There is a very distinct accent here which involves a nearly total elimination of the sound for the letter 's'.  At first I was truly lost but the silence is growing on me.  To explain, instead of mas o menos you will hear ma o meno.  Adios becomes adio; hasta luego, hata luego and so on.  The people here know that the way they speak is distinct and they have a great sense of humor about it.  As for me, I'm holding onto my 's' for as long as I can.  However my vegetarianism, well that is gone for now.  My host family prepares the most delicious home cooked foods and I refuse to refuse anything.  Eating is such an important experience and the best time for me to practice Spanish so I go in with all my senses.  Qué divertido!  What fun!  And so much more to come....

a repost of an email "newsletter" to my friends about the first days

So I am writing first to say thanks for the really nice goodbye wishes and farewells and second to say I'm safe and happy in this new life.  I have jumped in with both feet despite all the fear.  I have been in Siles for a little more than 24 hours now and it's been non-stop Spanish.  Often I don't understand much but I try to hang in there and make sense of the few words I do know.  Also it's funny yet great that yes or no questions end in a certain enunciation which prompts one to answer yes or no.  Then you must read their face to know which they want you to say.  Hmm, seems funnier in the moment but probably you know what I'm talking about.  

Anyway, this little town is hosting 'la ferria de San Miguel' and it lasts for 4 days.  There is a big white tent with a stage, many vendors, and delicious food from the region.  Today I saw some real deal flamenco meaning there were about 20 gypsies dancing on stage and a few old grandma's dancing below.  Total immersion at it's best!  However many people warned me that this is a very special time and that usually the town is calm and quiet.  Of course I can believe it.  In just one view from the window you can see about 20,000 olive trees covering the hillsides of this little town (pueblo).  The land is public and protected and I've been promised many chances to go hiking (senderismo).  Which I am going to need or else gain 20 pounds before I leave.

What else?  Tomorrow I will go to the school to see what there is to see.  The high school here is very small but is the main school for students here in Siles.  Many students from a nearby town are bussed here daily.  The specialty at the school is cooking.  How much more perfect could this be?  Even the son of my host family wants to be a chef and his mother is a great cook too.  I told her I love to bake and word got around quickly.  Today I was asked by this sweet older woman to teach her to bake a pie.  I wished she asked about cookies but nonetheless, I will try.